On November 7th,
Dad rode 18 miles to South Beach, Miami.
6 of those miles were devoted to buying a replacement helmet. The free breakfast provided by the Travelodge
Motel was scheduled to start at 9:00 a.m. The free breakfast at most hotels are between
6:30 a.m. and 9:30 a.m. Since there was no
activity in the café at 9:00 a.m. and Dad had been told the breakfast generally was
late, he went back to his room, changed into a riding kit, packed his bike, and
rolled it to the lobby placing his helmet on the back panniers. The café did not open until 9:30. a.m. He had a nice breakfast talking with a couple
from Chicago. At 10:00 a.m., he rolled the
bike to the street and started to ride when he realized he didn’t have his
helmet. A search of the hotel and
a conversation with the security guard revealed nothing. So, he was off to a bike shop to buy a
replacement. If the café had opened on
time, he would still have his original helmet.
After a day of riding, Dad stayed at the
reasonably-priced Clay Hotel, which was delightful with an old-world charm and modern
room. The hotel gave him a free drink
coupon at a nearby bistro and a half price coupon at a restaurant underneath
his room. So, he sat at a sidewalk table
sipping wine and watching people go by.
Then, he dined at the outdoor restaurant listening to recordings from the
20s and 30s.
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Hotel's Outdoor Restaurant |
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Dad's hotel is on this street in South Beach. Lots of Fun. |
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Hotel's Outdoor Restaurant at Night |
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The Clay Hotel's Entrance |
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South Beach High Rises. The whole coast has these high rises. |
On November 8th,
Dad rode 46 miles to Southern Comfort RV Resort. As he was riding out of Miami Beach toward
downtown Miami, a storm front was blowing in.
He tried to outrun it, but the stop lights and numerous turns in the
route kept delaying him. Initially, the
rain was light. When it became heavy, he
put on his rain jacket. He felt sorry
for the bedraggled local cyclists caught in the rain.
The bike paths in this area were in
very poor condition being more suitable for mountain bikes than road/touring
bikes. Also, they seemed to start and stop
for no apparent reason. He got lost and
finally asked a group of teenagers for directions. They were very helpful. Dad has concluded that bike paths are more
suitable for local riders familiar with the area than for through riders.
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Bike Path in Coral Babbled |
The next day, November 9th,
Bill rode 59 miles to Fiesta Key RV Resort.
He had cross winds for the first 20 miles and then a tailwind for most
of the rest of the day. Per the
recommendation of several people, he stopped at the Key Largo Welcome Center. Initially, he received helpful service with discount
coupons, and an explanation of Key West’s street layout. He was about to make a reservation at a bed
and breakfast in Key West when a woman
interrupted, thanking the employee for providing excellent service. Dad took this interruption as an opportunity
to visit the restroom and get some water.
When, he returned the conversation had changed from gratitude to asking advice
on a wide range of topics.
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The Everglades |
Since time
was passing, Dad went to the other employee to make the reservation. This person said he couldn’t help because he
wasn’t in the previous conversation. Dad
explained that all he needed was a reservation in Key West. The employee reluctantly found a list of
accommodations and mentioned one for $10.00 a night more than quoted by other
employee. When Dad mentioned this, he
threw up his hands saying, “Your right, you’re right,” and walked away.
By this time, the first employee was
free. So, Dad went back to him for the
reservation. He made a call and found a
room on the third floor of a bed and breakfast with no elevator. Dad stated that lugging a bicycle, four
panniers, and a tent up three flights of stair was not desirable. In response, he received a quote for a room
on the second floor, for $10.00 more and the same price as provided by then
other employee. Dad asked if he could
find something more reasonable. The employee responded by saying he couldn’t accommodate
people with special needs and pulled back from the counter. Dad suggested that he might be more
successful trying his luck when he arrived in Key West.
The employee walked away to talk with other people.
Dad continued on and at mile 46,
he stopped to buy food for that evening and the next morning. When he came out of the store a short while
later, rain was coming down in sheets.
So, he returned to the store and bought an ice cream drumstick. While eating the drumstick, he started
talking with a recently retire couple from Miami. As the rain slackened and the couple was
leaving, the husband gave my dad an angel medallion for good luck. Less than a mile later and only 81 miles from
the end of the trip, Dad had his first flat. It was on the rear tire and caused
by a piece if green glass. Five miles
later, he had his second flat. It was on
the front tire and caused by a piece of wire.
Normally Dad avoids this type of debris. However, debris is more
difficult to see on wet roads. These two
flats caused him to ride less than planned that day.
The sun had set at the RV Resort by the time he finished his shower. Luckily, the resort had a restaurant, so rather than cooking dinner in the dark on
a picnic table, he had a nice fish dinner and a beer while watching TV.
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Fiesta Key RV Resort Campground |
On November 10th, Dad rode 43
miles to Big Pine Key. He experienced
pleasant riding in the morning. While
stopped for a short break, light rain began to fall. So, he took an early lunch eating a conch
burger and waited for the sky to clear. The
ride over the Seven-Mile bridge was pleasant, although noisy at times from the
traffic.
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Start of the Seven-Mile Bridge |
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Part of the old bridge has been converted to a fishing pier. |
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One more bucket list item completed. |
Although, Dad knew almost
the exact location of the intended campsite for the evening, he rode right
past it. The sign was faded and
partially blocked by foliage. From the
street, the place looked like a dump.
Since rain had been gently falling for about 30 minutes, Dad decided to
check into an older motel with an analogue TV and a much-too-expensive price of
$111/night; the TV remote didn’t even work – highway robbery.
The Specialized helmet
Dad bought in Miami Beach was unsatisfactory.
It has no means to keep sweat out of his eyes and puts pressure on two
points on Dad's forehead. He temporarily
solved these issues by wrapping a bandana around his forehead. The owner’s manual describes a helmet
completely different than the one he bought. (A Specialized dealer later told
him that only one manual exists for their wide range of helmets.)
On November 11th, Dad rode
the final 40 miles to Key West. It was a perfect
end to the ride with gentle breezes, sunshine, and beautiful views. The previous day, he made a reservation at
the Best Western Motel. After checking
in, he was informed that bicycles were not allowed in the room. They expected the bike to be left in a bike
rack on the street. He said that policy
was a deal-breaker and his credit card charge was cancelled. So, he stayed next door in an older well-maintained efficiency motel for $50 a night less.
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The end of the ride. |
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How about that! |
At 4:00 p.m. that afternoon
a one hour Veteran’s Day parade started.
Being a veteran from the anti-war Vietnam era, Dad is always pleasantly
surprised by people enthusiastically supporting our military. Later, he had the requisite margarita at
Jimmy Buffett’s Margaretville. That night, he also
enjoyed the bagpipe band playing on the street and in two bars on Duval Street.
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Veteran's Day Parade that lasted one hour. |
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Bagpipe band in Veteran's Day Parade. |
On November 12th,
Dad rode 8 miles exploring Key West and looking for a bank to cash traveler’s
checks; this form of currency is becoming obsolete. He also swam at the same beach used daily by
Tennessee Williams, watched the sun set while drinking a pina colada, ate key
lime pie, and smoked a Cuban leaf cigar.
Now, that he had completed all the tourist activities, he was free to
return home.
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At the end of the road. |
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One of many tour boats available. |
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People waiting in line to take pictures of the southern most point in the U.S. |
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This bagpipe band went around town playing patriotic music on Veteran's day. |
On November 13th, after a
short swim, Dad rode two miles to drop off his bike, three panniers, tent,
three water bottles, and a frame pump at a bike shop for shipment home. Then, he walked about three miles to the
airport having a leisurely lunch along the way and wading in the ocean with his
handle bar bag and one pannier.
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Sunset |
Miscellaneous thoughts:
- These pages contain no stories of dog
attacks. The cyclists Dad met did have
dog stories to tell. He suspects the
reason for no dog stories is that much of the ride through South Carolina and
George was on US 17, is a major highway with few houses or farms directly on
the road.
- A couple of times while sitting around the
campsite, Dad became very grateful for the time, health, resources, and support
making the trip possible.
- Many tourist and local residents ride bicycles
in Key West. Very few wore helmets or
used lights after dark. Perhaps, this is
a reflection of the town’s carefree spirit.
- How is a bottomless cup of coffee possible? If it has no bottom, how does the coffee stay
in the cup?
- Dad reached the end of the road; for this trip
at least. Hopefully, many more trips are
in the future.
- Dad checked off several bucket list items;
visiting the North Carolina Outer Banks, Charlestown, Savannah, ST Augustine, Miami
Beach, and the Florida Keys, reconnecting with family and friends, taking an
air boat ride, and riding over the Seven-Mile Bridge. This trip was more leisurely than previous
ones; ride a few days, tour or visits for a couple of days, then repeat.
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