Final Stretch

On November 7^th, Dad rode 18 miles to South Beach, Miami.  6 of those miles were devoted to buying a replacement helmet.  The free breakfast provided by the Travelodge Motel was scheduled to start at 9:00 a.m.   The free breakfast at most hotels are between 6:30 a.m. and 9:30 a.m.  Since there was no activity in the café at 9:00 a.m. and Dad had been told the breakfast generally was late, he went back to his room, changed into a riding kit, packed his bike, and rolled it to the lobby placing his helmet on the back panniers.  The café did not open until 9:30. a.m.  He had a nice breakfast talking with a couple from Chicago.  At 10:00 a.m., he rolled the bike to the street and started to ride when he realized he didn’t have his helmet.  A search of the hotel and a conversation with the security guard revealed nothing.  So, he was off to a bike shop to buy a replacement.  If the café had opened on time, he would still have his original helmet.

After a day of riding, Dad stayed at the reasonably-priced Clay Hotel, which was delightful with an old-world charm and modern room.  The hotel gave him a free drink coupon at a nearby bistro and a half price coupon at a restaurant underneath his room.  So, he sat at a sidewalk table sipping wine and watching people go by.  Then, he dined at the outdoor restaurant listening to recordings from the 20s and 30s.

Hotel's Outdoor Restaurant

Dad's hotel is on this street in South Beach.  Lots of Fun.

Hotel's Outdoor Restaurant at Night

The Clay Hotel's Entrance

South Beach High Rises.  The whole coast has these high rises.



On November 8^th, Dad rode 46 miles to Southern Comfort RV Resort.  As he was riding out of Miami Beach toward downtown Miami, a storm front was blowing in.  He tried to outrun it, but the stop lights and numerous turns in the route kept delaying him.  Initially, the rain was light.  When it became heavy, he put on his rain jacket.  He felt sorry for the bedraggled local cyclists caught in the rain. 

The bike paths in this area were in very poor condition being more suitable for mountain bikes than road/touring bikes.  Also, they seemed to start and stop for no apparent reason.  He got lost and finally asked a group of teenagers for directions.  They were very helpful.  Dad has concluded that bike paths are more suitable for local riders familiar with the area than for through riders.

Bike Path in Coral Babbled

The next day, November 9^th, Bill rode 59 miles to Fiesta Key RV Resort.  He had cross winds for the first 20 miles and then a tailwind for most of the rest of the day.   Per the recommendation of several people, he stopped at the Key Largo Welcome Center.  Initially, he received helpful service with discount coupons, and an explanation of Key West’s street layout.  He was about to make a reservation at a bed and breakfast in Key West when a woman interrupted, thanking the employee for providing excellent service.  Dad took this interruption as an opportunity to visit the restroom and get some water.  When, he returned the conversation had changed from gratitude to asking advice on a wide range of topics.

The Everglades

Since time was passing, Dad went to the other employee to make the reservation.  This person said he couldn’t help because he wasn’t in the previous conversation.  Dad explained that all he needed was a reservation in Key West.  The employee reluctantly found a list of accommodations and mentioned one for $10.00 a night more than quoted by other employee.  When Dad mentioned this, he threw up his hands saying, “Your right, you’re right,” and walked away.

By this time, the first employee was free.  So, Dad went back to him for the reservation.  He made a call and found a room on the third floor of a bed and breakfast with no elevator.  Dad stated that lugging a bicycle, four panniers, and a tent up three flights of stair was not desirable.  In response, he received a quote for a room on the second floor, for $10.00 more and the same price as provided by then other employee.  Dad asked if he could find something more reasonable. The employee responded by saying he couldn’t accommodate people with special needs and pulled back from the counter.  Dad suggested that he might be more successful trying his luck when he arrived in Key West.  The employee walked away to talk with other people.

Dad continued on and at mile 46, he stopped to buy food for that evening and the next morning.  When he came out of the store a short while later, rain was coming down in sheets.  So, he returned to the store and bought an ice cream drumstick.  While eating the drumstick, he started talking with a recently retire couple from Miami.  As the rain slackened and the couple was leaving, the husband gave my dad an angel medallion for good luck.  Less than a mile later and only 81 miles from the end of the trip, Dad had his first flat. It was on the rear tire and caused by a piece if green glass.  Five miles later, he had his second flat.  It was on the front tire and caused by a piece of wire.  Normally Dad avoids this type of debris. However, debris is more difficult to see on wet roads.  These two flats caused him to ride less than planned that day.  The sun had set at the RV Resort by the time he finished his shower.  Luckily, the resort had a restaurant, so rather than cooking dinner in the dark on a picnic table, he had a nice fish dinner and a beer while watching TV.

Fiesta Key RV Resort Campground

 

On November 10th, Dad rode 43 miles to Big Pine Key.  He experienced pleasant riding in the morning.  While stopped for a short break, light rain began to fall.  So, he took an early lunch eating a conch burger and waited for the sky to clear.  The ride over the Seven-Mile bridge was pleasant, although noisy at times from the traffic. 

Start of the Seven-Mile Bridge

Part of the old bridge has been converted to a fishing pier.

One more bucket list item completed.

Although, Dad knew almost the exact location of the intended campsite for the evening, he rode right past it.  The sign was faded and partially blocked by foliage.  From the street, the place looked like a dump.  Since rain had been gently falling for about 30 minutes, Dad decided to check into an older motel with an analogue TV and a much-too-expensive price of $111/night; the TV remote didn’t even work – highway robbery. 

The Specialized helmet Dad bought in Miami Beach was unsatisfactory.  It has no means to keep sweat out of his eyes and puts pressure on two points on Dad's forehead.  He temporarily solved these issues by wrapping a bandana around his forehead.  The owner’s manual describes a helmet completely different than the one he bought. (A Specialized dealer later told him that only one manual exists for their wide range of helmets.)

On November 11th, Dad rode the final 40 miles to Key West.  It was a perfect end to the ride with gentle breezes, sunshine, and beautiful views.  The previous day, he made a reservation at the Best Western Motel.  After checking in, he was informed that bicycles were not allowed in the room.  They expected the bike to be left in a bike rack on the street.  He said that policy was a deal-breaker and his credit card charge was cancelled.  So, he stayed next door in an older well-maintained efficiency motel for $50 a night less. 

The end of the ride.

How about that!

At 4:00 p.m. that afternoon a one hour Veteran’s Day parade started.  Being a veteran from the anti-war Vietnam era, Dad is always pleasantly surprised by people enthusiastically supporting our military.  Later, he had the requisite margarita at Jimmy Buffett’s Margaretville.  That night, he also enjoyed the bagpipe band playing on the street and in two bars on Duval Street.

Veteran's Day Parade that lasted one hour.

Bagpipe band in Veteran's Day Parade.

 

On November 12^th, Dad rode 8 miles exploring Key West and looking for a bank to cash traveler’s checks; this form of currency is becoming obsolete.  He also swam at the same beach used daily by Tennessee Williams, watched the sun set while drinking a pina colada, ate key lime pie, and smoked a Cuban leaf cigar.  Now, that he had completed all the tourist activities, he was free to return home. 

At the end of the road.

One of many tour boats available.

People waiting in line to take pictures of the southern most point in the U.S. 



This bagpipe band went around town playing patriotic music on Veteran's day.

On November 13th, after a short swim, Dad rode two miles to drop off his bike, three panniers, tent, three water bottles, and a frame pump at a bike shop for shipment home.  Then, he walked about three miles to the airport having a leisurely lunch along the way and wading in the ocean with his handle bar bag and one pannier.

Sunset

 

Miscellaneous thoughts:

-        These pages contain no stories of dog attacks.  The cyclists Dad met did have dog stories to tell.  He suspects the reason for no dog stories is that much of the ride through South Carolina and George was on US 17, is a major highway with few houses or farms directly on the road.

-        A couple of times while sitting around the campsite, Dad became very grateful for the time, health, resources, and support making the trip possible.

-         Many tourist and local residents ride bicycles in Key West.  Very few wore helmets or used lights after dark.  Perhaps, this is a reflection of the town’s carefree spirit.

-         How is a bottomless cup of coffee possible?  If it has no bottom, how does the coffee stay in the cup?

-         Dad reached the end of the road; for this trip at least.  Hopefully, many more trips are in the future.

-       Dad checked off several bucket list items; visiting the North Carolina Outer Banks, Charlestown, Savannah, ST Augustine, Miami Beach, and the Florida Keys, reconnecting with family and friends, taking an air boat ride, and riding over the Seven-Mile Bridge.  This trip was more leisurely than previous ones; ride a few days, tour or visits for a couple of days, then repeat.

Almost Done Already

After riding 55 miles to Tomoka State Park on Saturday, October 30th, Dad slept as it rained lightly all night long.  When he awoke, he rode 52 miles to Northgate Travel Park, which turned out to be sort of a retirement place.  No one was there to check him in when he arrived, and after facing 15 mph headwinds for most of the day, Dad wanted to rest.  A lady pulled up and they started talking.  Others joined in the conversation about what Dad should do and where he should set up camp.  Soon afterwards, the owner came back and Dad was able to pay for his stay.

As Dad was riding that day, he met up with the same couple he met earlier on his trip who were riding from Maine to Key West.  They talked a bit and he went on his way.  Later, they met again.  This time, 3 retired New Jersey police officer who the couple had met earlier that day rode up and all 6 of them were chatting on the side of the rode.  The officers were riding to memorialize a cop friend who died right before retiring.

On November 1st, Dad rode 48 miles to Indian Harbour Beach to the home of his brother, David.  As he was riding through the town of Cocoa, he met a local cyclist who stopped to talk to Dad while he was reading a historical sign.  The local convinced Dad to go back to Cocoa Village for lunch.  He offered 3 restaurant suggestions and told him about a bike shop where he could fill his tires.  Dad was thankful to the local cyclist for a nice lunch and full tires.

For dinner, Dad enjoyed a yummy steak at David and Amy's house while enjoying the company of family.  Since the clicking sound came back again, David and Amy took Dad to the best bike shop in the area and the mechanics heard the sound.  They thought it was the pedal, but Dad decided it wasn't worth fixing.  Since then, the sound has disappeared again.

The rest of the weekend was spent with family.  They watched Christian's surf class, listened to Molly sing in church for the first time in months, and went to the Lone Cabbage Fish Camp for an airboat ride.  They also enjoyed beer and watching football together.

Christian's Surf Class (Christian, Molly, Amy)

Bill watching FSU/Miami football at David's house.

The whole crew watching the game.

David, Christian, and Dad by the airboat.

One more item off Bill's bucket list.

 

The Birds

 

Lone Cabbage Fish Camp

After sharing in eating 2 pounds of gator tail for lunch, this seemed only fair.

On Monday, November 4th, the weather channel said there would be strong crosswinds all day at 23 knots.  The ride was okay, but when Bill got to Fort Pierce, where he was planning to stay, it was only 1:30 p.m., so he continued on to Stewart, recording 84 miles that day.  

Winds were gusting at 35 mph according to the weather channel the following day on the way to John Prince Park Campground.  Fortunately, it wasn't that bad because Dad was shielded by trees.  The map stated the campground was 3 miles off route, but it was actually 5 miles.  Dad took note and will notify Adventure Cycling when he returns.  During the last 2 days, Dad enjoyed the views of beautiful boats and yachts.    

Note the angle of the signals due to the gusty winds and the mist in the distance.
This mist coats Bill's glasses with salt that must be rinsed off every couple of hours.

The 6th was also filled with nice scenery during his 60 mile ride.  From the boardwalk in Hollywood, he saw people swimming, joggers, and other cyclists.  It was pretty and the people were pleasant.

Big homes and yachts.

There was a section around Delray Beach though, where there were a lot of joggers, cyclists, and walkers who would not make eye contact.  Dad thought it was strange.  People seemed rude or awkward.  If he did make eye contact, people would quickly look away.  It was like everyone was mad.

Dad also shared that his handlebar bag keeps bouncing off this bike.  He thought he fixed it, but it did it again  Luckily, this last time, it was strapped onto the bike, so that it didn't fall off into the street.  Now he rides slowly on rough spots to avoid losing his bag.

He will check into Miami later today at a hostel he heard good things about.  He plans to spend a few days relaxing, swimming in the Atlantic, and soaking in the beach life at South Beach.

He recorded 299 miles since we last talked and is almost done.  Dad has 180 miles left to go and plans to fly home on November 13th.

Entering Florida

Dad rode 216 miles since we last talked.  All week long, the mornings have been about 45 degrees when Dad has headed out for the day.

On the 24th, he rode 63 miles to the depressed city of Darien, Georgia.  He stayed in a motel next to a huge outlet mall with only 6 tenants.  Most of the stores and restaurants were closed in that area. 

What a pleasant thought.

He was happy to announce that the clicking sound finally disappeared.  The bike store mechanic at the last shop he went to loosened the steering because it didn't want to turn well and he straightened the handlebars a bit.  He doesn't know if that was related to the clicking sound, but it is gone.  Yahoo!

The 25th was full of adventure on the 61 miles to Kingsland, Georgia.  First, a crown came off his tooth on his lower left jaw at the end of lunch while he was eating a chocolate chip cookie.  Luckily, there was a dentist in the same strip mall where he was having his lunch who had time to fix it.  An hour and a half later, he was back on the road. 

Later that day, he found out that the bridge was out on US17 and the detour for cyclist was 20 miles long, while the detour for cars and trucks was 2 miles long.  He planned to make it to Yulee, Florida, that day, but with the detour he stayed in Kingsland.

The US 17 bridge over the St Mary's River is closed.  Cars and trucks are detoured two miles west to I 95.  Bicycles are detoured 20 miles east to US 301.

When he finally got to Yulee on the 26th, he found out the campground he was planning to stay at wasn't set up for tents.  They wanted to charge him RV prices for setting up a tent on the lawn, so he continued on to Fernandina Beach, Florida, recording 72 miles that day.  He spent 2 days trying to get to Yulee, only to find out it wasn't what he expected.

Welcome to Florida.
 

The 27th didn't go as planned either.  He cycled 62 miles to a campground 6 miles north of St. Augustine, but after he checked in, he found out that there was a sewage leak and the water was not potable.  He was asked to sign a paper acknowledging that he knows he needs to boil his water prior to drinking it.  Dad didn't want to deal with that, so he rode the rest of the way to St. Augustine and spent 3 nights in a motel as he explored the city.

St. Augustine is a tourist town and Bill has enjoyed riding around visiting the attractions (the pictures below are in no particular order).  The mornings have been cool and the afternoons pleasant.  St. Augustine, in its long history, had once been a walled city.  The gates used to close at midnight and if you were not inside the gates on time, then you would be stuck outside the city with the alligators and the graveyards.  There are a lot of one-way roads there too.  He discovered this on the 29th, when he rode 8 miles instead of 4 miles trying to get somewhere.


Welcome to St. Augustine.

After wine-tasting at San Sebastian Winery.

 As many as 25 bodies are buried under each tombstone.

 Castillo de San Marcos: This is the tenth fort on this site.  The other nine were made of wood.

The oldest science house.

Interesting, very interesting...

Inside a church.

 Henry Flagler Statue:  He basically built St Augustine in the late 1800's.

Flagler Memorial Presbyterian Church built in 361 days.

This restaurant where Dad had lunch is on the bottom of what was once the world's largest indoor swimming pool.