I started another blog for my dad, Bill. His new adventure is from Chicago to Santa Monica and the details can be found at https://billsbigadventureroute66.blogspot.com/. He left on August 28th by train to Chicago and has been on the road for a bit. I've received a lot of pictures, but haven't had a chance to talk to him yet. I will write as I get updates.
Patti
Monday, September 10, 2018
Tuesday, November 26, 2013
Final Stretch
On November 7th,
Dad rode 18 miles to South Beach, Miami.
6 of those miles were devoted to buying a replacement helmet. The free breakfast provided by the Travelodge
Motel was scheduled to start at 9:00 a.m. The free breakfast at most hotels are between
6:30 a.m. and 9:30 a.m. Since there was no
activity in the café at 9:00 a.m. and Dad had been told the breakfast generally was
late, he went back to his room, changed into a riding kit, packed his bike, and
rolled it to the lobby placing his helmet on the back panniers. The café did not open until 9:30. a.m. He had a nice breakfast talking with a couple
from Chicago. At 10:00 a.m., he rolled the
bike to the street and started to ride when he realized he didn’t have his
helmet. A search of the hotel and
a conversation with the security guard revealed nothing. So, he was off to a bike shop to buy a
replacement. If the café had opened on
time, he would still have his original helmet.
After a day of riding, Dad stayed at the
reasonably-priced Clay Hotel, which was delightful with an old-world charm and modern
room. The hotel gave him a free drink
coupon at a nearby bistro and a half price coupon at a restaurant underneath
his room. So, he sat at a sidewalk table
sipping wine and watching people go by.
Then, he dined at the outdoor restaurant listening to recordings from the
20s and 30s.  |
| Hotel's Outdoor Restaurant |
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| Dad's hotel is on this street in South Beach. Lots of Fun. |
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| Hotel's Outdoor Restaurant at Night |
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| The Clay Hotel's Entrance |
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| South Beach High Rises. The whole coast has these high rises. |
The bike paths in this area were in very poor condition being more suitable for mountain bikes than road/touring bikes. Also, they seemed to start and stop for no apparent reason. He got lost and finally asked a group of teenagers for directions. They were very helpful. Dad has concluded that bike paths are more suitable for local riders familiar with the area than for through riders.
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| Bike Path in Coral Babbled |
The next day, November 9th,
Bill rode 59 miles to Fiesta Key RV Resort.
He had cross winds for the first 20 miles and then a tailwind for most
of the rest of the day. Per the
recommendation of several people, he stopped at the Key Largo Welcome Center. Initially, he received helpful service with discount
coupons, and an explanation of Key West’s street layout. He was about to make a reservation at a bed
and breakfast in Key West when a woman
interrupted, thanking the employee for providing excellent service. Dad took this interruption as an opportunity
to visit the restroom and get some water.
When, he returned the conversation had changed from gratitude to asking advice
on a wide range of topics.
Since time was passing, Dad went to the other employee to make the reservation. This person said he couldn’t help because he wasn’t in the previous conversation. Dad explained that all he needed was a reservation in Key West. The employee reluctantly found a list of accommodations and mentioned one for $10.00 a night more than quoted by other employee. When Dad mentioned this, he threw up his hands saying, “Your right, you’re right,” and walked away.
By this time, the first employee was free. So, Dad went back to him for the reservation. He made a call and found a room on the third floor of a bed and breakfast with no elevator. Dad stated that lugging a bicycle, four panniers, and a tent up three flights of stair was not desirable. In response, he received a quote for a room on the second floor, for $10.00 more and the same price as provided by then other employee. Dad asked if he could find something more reasonable. The employee responded by saying he couldn’t accommodate people with special needs and pulled back from the counter. Dad suggested that he might be more successful trying his luck when he arrived in Key West. The employee walked away to talk with other people.
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| The Everglades |
Since time was passing, Dad went to the other employee to make the reservation. This person said he couldn’t help because he wasn’t in the previous conversation. Dad explained that all he needed was a reservation in Key West. The employee reluctantly found a list of accommodations and mentioned one for $10.00 a night more than quoted by other employee. When Dad mentioned this, he threw up his hands saying, “Your right, you’re right,” and walked away.
By this time, the first employee was free. So, Dad went back to him for the reservation. He made a call and found a room on the third floor of a bed and breakfast with no elevator. Dad stated that lugging a bicycle, four panniers, and a tent up three flights of stair was not desirable. In response, he received a quote for a room on the second floor, for $10.00 more and the same price as provided by then other employee. Dad asked if he could find something more reasonable. The employee responded by saying he couldn’t accommodate people with special needs and pulled back from the counter. Dad suggested that he might be more successful trying his luck when he arrived in Key West. The employee walked away to talk with other people.
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| Fiesta Key RV Resort Campground |
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| Start of the Seven-Mile Bridge |
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| Part of the old bridge has been converted to a fishing pier. |
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| One more bucket list item completed. |
Although, Dad knew almost the exact location of the intended campsite for the evening, he rode right past it. The sign was faded and partially blocked by foliage. From the street, the place looked like a dump. Since rain had been gently falling for about 30 minutes, Dad decided to check into an older motel with an analogue TV and a much-too-expensive price of $111/night; the TV remote didn’t even work – highway robbery.
The Specialized helmet Dad bought in Miami Beach was unsatisfactory. It has no means to keep sweat out of his eyes and puts pressure on two points on Dad's forehead. He temporarily solved these issues by wrapping a bandana around his forehead. The owner’s manual describes a helmet completely different than the one he bought. (A Specialized dealer later told him that only one manual exists for their wide range of helmets.)
On November 11th, Dad rode the final 40 miles to Key West. It was a perfect end to the ride with gentle breezes, sunshine, and beautiful views. The previous day, he made a reservation at the Best Western Motel. After checking in, he was informed that bicycles were not allowed in the room. They expected the bike to be left in a bike rack on the street. He said that policy was a deal-breaker and his credit card charge was cancelled. So, he stayed next door in an older well-maintained efficiency motel for $50 a night less.
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| The end of the ride. |
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| How about that! |
At 4:00 p.m. that afternoon
a one hour Veteran’s Day parade started.
Being a veteran from the anti-war Vietnam era, Dad is always pleasantly
surprised by people enthusiastically supporting our military. Later, he had the requisite margarita at
Jimmy Buffett’s Margaretville. That night, he also
enjoyed the bagpipe band playing on the street and in two bars on Duval Street.
On November 12th,
Dad rode 8 miles exploring Key West and looking for a bank to cash traveler’s
checks; this form of currency is becoming obsolete. He also swam at the same beach used daily by
Tennessee Williams, watched the sun set while drinking a pina colada, ate key
lime pie, and smoked a Cuban leaf cigar.
Now, that he had completed all the tourist activities, he was free to
return home.  |
| Veteran's Day Parade that lasted one hour. |
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| Bagpipe band in Veteran's Day Parade. |
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| At the end of the road. |
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| One of many tour boats available. |
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| People waiting in line to take pictures of the southern most point in the U.S. |
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| This bagpipe band went around town playing patriotic music on Veteran's day. |
On November 13th, after a short swim, Dad rode two miles to drop off his bike, three panniers, tent, three water bottles, and a frame pump at a bike shop for shipment home. Then, he walked about three miles to the airport having a leisurely lunch along the way and wading in the ocean with his handle bar bag and one pannier.
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| Sunset |
Miscellaneous thoughts:
- These pages contain no stories of dog
attacks. The cyclists Dad met did have
dog stories to tell. He suspects the
reason for no dog stories is that much of the ride through South Carolina and
George was on US 17, is a major highway with few houses or farms directly on
the road.
- A couple of times while sitting around the
campsite, Dad became very grateful for the time, health, resources, and support
making the trip possible.
- Many tourist and local residents ride bicycles
in Key West. Very few wore helmets or
used lights after dark. Perhaps, this is
a reflection of the town’s carefree spirit.
- How is a bottomless cup of coffee possible? If it has no bottom, how does the coffee stay
in the cup?
- Dad reached the end of the road; for this trip
at least. Hopefully, many more trips are
in the future.
Thursday, November 14, 2013
Almost Done Already
After riding 55 miles to Tomoka State Park on Saturday, October 30th, Dad slept as it rained lightly all night long. When he awoke, he rode 52 miles to Northgate Travel Park, which turned out to be sort of a retirement place. No one was there to check him in when he arrived, and after facing 15 mph headwinds for most of the day, Dad wanted to rest. A lady pulled up and they started talking. Others joined in the conversation about what Dad should do and where he should set up camp. Soon afterwards, the owner came back and Dad was able to pay for his stay.
As Dad was riding that day, he met up with the same couple he met earlier on his trip who were riding from Maine to Key West. They talked a bit and he went on his way. Later, they met again. This time, 3 retired New Jersey police officer who the couple had met earlier that day rode up and all 6 of them were chatting on the side of the rode. The officers were riding to memorialize a cop friend who died right before retiring.
On November 1st, Dad rode 48 miles to Indian Harbour Beach to the home of his brother, David. As he was riding through the town of Cocoa, he met a local cyclist who stopped to talk to Dad while he was reading a historical sign. The local convinced Dad to go back to Cocoa Village for lunch. He offered 3 restaurant suggestions and told him about a bike shop where he could fill his tires. Dad was thankful to the local cyclist for a nice lunch and full tires.
For dinner, Dad enjoyed a yummy steak at David and Amy's house while enjoying the company of family. Since the clicking sound came back again, David and Amy took Dad to the best bike shop in the area and the mechanics heard the sound. They thought it was the pedal, but Dad decided it wasn't worth fixing. Since then, the sound has disappeared again.
The rest of the weekend was spent with family. They watched Christian's surf class, listened to Molly sing in church for the first time in months, and went to the Lone Cabbage Fish Camp for an airboat ride. They also enjoyed beer and watching football together.
On Monday, November 4th, the weather channel said there would be strong crosswinds all day at 23 knots. The ride was okay, but when Bill got to Fort Pierce, where he was planning to stay, it was only 1:30 p.m., so he continued on to Stewart, recording 84 miles that day.
Winds were gusting at 35 mph according to the weather channel the following day on the way to John Prince Park Campground. Fortunately, it wasn't that bad because Dad was shielded by trees. The map stated the campground was 3 miles off route, but it was actually 5 miles. Dad took note and will notify Adventure Cycling when he returns. During the last 2 days, Dad enjoyed the views of beautiful boats and yachts.
The 6th was also filled with nice scenery during his 60 mile ride. From the boardwalk in Hollywood, he saw people swimming, joggers, and other cyclists. It was pretty and the people were pleasant.
There was a section around Delray Beach though, where there were a lot of joggers, cyclists, and walkers who would not make eye contact. Dad thought it was strange. People seemed rude or awkward. If he did make eye contact, people would quickly look away. It was like everyone was mad.
Dad also shared that his handlebar bag keeps bouncing off this bike. He thought he fixed it, but it did it again Luckily, this last time, it was strapped onto the bike, so that it didn't fall off into the street. Now he rides slowly on rough spots to avoid losing his bag.
He will check into Miami later today at a hostel he heard good things about. He plans to spend a few days relaxing, swimming in the Atlantic, and soaking in the beach life at South Beach.
He recorded 299 miles since we last talked and is almost done. Dad has 180 miles left to go and plans to fly home on November 13th.
As Dad was riding that day, he met up with the same couple he met earlier on his trip who were riding from Maine to Key West. They talked a bit and he went on his way. Later, they met again. This time, 3 retired New Jersey police officer who the couple had met earlier that day rode up and all 6 of them were chatting on the side of the rode. The officers were riding to memorialize a cop friend who died right before retiring.
On November 1st, Dad rode 48 miles to Indian Harbour Beach to the home of his brother, David. As he was riding through the town of Cocoa, he met a local cyclist who stopped to talk to Dad while he was reading a historical sign. The local convinced Dad to go back to Cocoa Village for lunch. He offered 3 restaurant suggestions and told him about a bike shop where he could fill his tires. Dad was thankful to the local cyclist for a nice lunch and full tires.
For dinner, Dad enjoyed a yummy steak at David and Amy's house while enjoying the company of family. Since the clicking sound came back again, David and Amy took Dad to the best bike shop in the area and the mechanics heard the sound. They thought it was the pedal, but Dad decided it wasn't worth fixing. Since then, the sound has disappeared again.
The rest of the weekend was spent with family. They watched Christian's surf class, listened to Molly sing in church for the first time in months, and went to the Lone Cabbage Fish Camp for an airboat ride. They also enjoyed beer and watching football together.
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| Christian's Surf Class (Christian, Molly, Amy) |
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| Bill watching FSU/Miami football at David's house. |
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| The whole crew watching the game. |
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| David, Christian, and Dad by the airboat. |
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| One more item off Bill's bucket list. |
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| The Birds |
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| Lone Cabbage Fish Camp |
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| After sharing in eating 2 pounds of gator tail for lunch, this seemed only fair. |
On Monday, November 4th, the weather channel said there would be strong crosswinds all day at 23 knots. The ride was okay, but when Bill got to Fort Pierce, where he was planning to stay, it was only 1:30 p.m., so he continued on to Stewart, recording 84 miles that day.
Winds were gusting at 35 mph according to the weather channel the following day on the way to John Prince Park Campground. Fortunately, it wasn't that bad because Dad was shielded by trees. The map stated the campground was 3 miles off route, but it was actually 5 miles. Dad took note and will notify Adventure Cycling when he returns. During the last 2 days, Dad enjoyed the views of beautiful boats and yachts.
 |
| Note the angle of the signals due to the gusty winds and the mist in the distance. This mist coats Bill's glasses with salt that must be rinsed off every couple of hours. |
The 6th was also filled with nice scenery during his 60 mile ride. From the boardwalk in Hollywood, he saw people swimming, joggers, and other cyclists. It was pretty and the people were pleasant.
 |
| Big homes and yachts. |
There was a section around Delray Beach though, where there were a lot of joggers, cyclists, and walkers who would not make eye contact. Dad thought it was strange. People seemed rude or awkward. If he did make eye contact, people would quickly look away. It was like everyone was mad.
Dad also shared that his handlebar bag keeps bouncing off this bike. He thought he fixed it, but it did it again Luckily, this last time, it was strapped onto the bike, so that it didn't fall off into the street. Now he rides slowly on rough spots to avoid losing his bag.
He will check into Miami later today at a hostel he heard good things about. He plans to spend a few days relaxing, swimming in the Atlantic, and soaking in the beach life at South Beach.
He recorded 299 miles since we last talked and is almost done. Dad has 180 miles left to go and plans to fly home on November 13th.
Sunday, November 3, 2013
Entering Florida
Dad rode 216 miles since we last talked. All week long, the mornings have been about 45 degrees when Dad has headed out for the day.
On the 24th, he rode 63 miles to the depressed city of Darien, Georgia. He stayed in a motel next to a huge outlet mall with only 6 tenants. Most of the stores and restaurants were closed in that area.
He was happy to announce that the clicking sound finally disappeared. The bike store mechanic at the last shop he went to loosened the steering because it didn't want to turn well and he straightened the handlebars a bit. He doesn't know if that was related to the clicking sound, but it is gone. Yahoo!
The 25th was full of adventure on the 61 miles to Kingsland, Georgia. First, a crown came off his tooth on his lower left jaw at the end of lunch while he was eating a chocolate chip cookie. Luckily, there was a dentist in the same strip mall where he was having his lunch who had time to fix it. An hour and a half later, he was back on the road.
Later that day, he found out that the bridge was out on US17 and the detour for cyclist was 20 miles long, while the detour for cars and trucks was 2 miles long. He planned to make it to Yulee, Florida, that day, but with the detour he stayed in Kingsland.
When he finally got to Yulee on the 26th, he found out the campground he was planning to stay at wasn't set up for tents. They wanted to charge him RV prices for setting up a tent on the lawn, so he continued on to Fernandina Beach, Florida, recording 72 miles that day. He spent 2 days trying to get to Yulee, only to find out it wasn't what he expected.
The 27th didn't go as planned either. He cycled 62 miles to a campground 6 miles north of St. Augustine, but after he checked in, he found out that there was a sewage leak and the water was not potable. He was asked to sign a paper acknowledging that he knows he needs to boil his water prior to drinking it. Dad didn't want to deal with that, so he rode the rest of the way to St. Augustine and spent 3 nights in a motel as he explored the city.
St. Augustine is a tourist town and Bill has enjoyed riding around visiting the attractions (the pictures below are in no particular order). The mornings have been cool and the afternoons pleasant. St. Augustine, in its long history, had once been a walled city. The gates used to close at midnight and if you were not inside the gates on time, then you would be stuck outside the city with the alligators and the graveyards. There are a lot of one-way roads there too. He discovered this on the 29th, when he rode 8 miles instead of 4 miles trying to get somewhere.
On the 24th, he rode 63 miles to the depressed city of Darien, Georgia. He stayed in a motel next to a huge outlet mall with only 6 tenants. Most of the stores and restaurants were closed in that area.
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| What a pleasant thought. |
He was happy to announce that the clicking sound finally disappeared. The bike store mechanic at the last shop he went to loosened the steering because it didn't want to turn well and he straightened the handlebars a bit. He doesn't know if that was related to the clicking sound, but it is gone. Yahoo!
The 25th was full of adventure on the 61 miles to Kingsland, Georgia. First, a crown came off his tooth on his lower left jaw at the end of lunch while he was eating a chocolate chip cookie. Luckily, there was a dentist in the same strip mall where he was having his lunch who had time to fix it. An hour and a half later, he was back on the road.
Later that day, he found out that the bridge was out on US17 and the detour for cyclist was 20 miles long, while the detour for cars and trucks was 2 miles long. He planned to make it to Yulee, Florida, that day, but with the detour he stayed in Kingsland.
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| The US 17 bridge over the St Mary's River is closed. Cars and trucks are detoured two miles west to I 95. Bicycles are detoured 20 miles east to US 301. |
When he finally got to Yulee on the 26th, he found out the campground he was planning to stay at wasn't set up for tents. They wanted to charge him RV prices for setting up a tent on the lawn, so he continued on to Fernandina Beach, Florida, recording 72 miles that day. He spent 2 days trying to get to Yulee, only to find out it wasn't what he expected.
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| Welcome to Florida. |
St. Augustine is a tourist town and Bill has enjoyed riding around visiting the attractions (the pictures below are in no particular order). The mornings have been cool and the afternoons pleasant. St. Augustine, in its long history, had once been a walled city. The gates used to close at midnight and if you were not inside the gates on time, then you would be stuck outside the city with the alligators and the graveyards. There are a lot of one-way roads there too. He discovered this on the 29th, when he rode 8 miles instead of 4 miles trying to get somewhere.
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| Welcome to St. Augustine. |
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| After wine-tasting at San Sebastian Winery. |
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| As many as 25 bodies are buried under each tombstone. |
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| Castillo de San Marcos: This is the tenth fort on this site. The other nine were made of wood. |
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| The oldest science house. |
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| Interesting, very interesting... |
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| Inside a church. |
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| Henry Flagler Statue: He basically built St Augustine in the late 1800's. |
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| Flagler Memorial Presbyterian Church built in 361 days. |
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| This restaurant where Dad had lunch is on the bottom of what was once the world's largest indoor swimming pool. |
Friday, October 25, 2013
Sightseeing in Charleston and Savannah
After a late night talking with his old friend, Terry, Dad woke up early on Thursday, October 17th, and got back in the saddle by 8 a.m. to get to Charleston, South Carolina. He was fueled by a nice scrambled egg breakfast that Terry made.
He planned to stay a couple nights at the Mt. Pleasant/Charleston KOA campground since a South Carolina Welcome Center staff member told him they offer a shuttle service into the historic district, but when he got there he found out they didn't. He called around for a hotel in the historic district for Friday and Saturday nights, but there was nothing available unless he wanted to spend over $300/night. He stayed at the KOA on the 17th, after completing 72 miles, and then headed to the Charleston Welcome Center on the 18th.
He walked in and said he needed help finding a place to stay that would allow him to have easy access to the historic district. The lady who assisted him found him a Courtyard by Marriott that was $150/night. Although it wasn't in the historic district, it was on the trolley route to the historic district. He was pleased with the results of asking for help and avoiding the $300/night charge.
His ride was short that day. From the KOA, to the Welcome Center, and then the Marriott was just 16 miles. The bridge portion of his ride had a really nice bike lane, he was told, but he never saw it because he wasn't able to access it from the route he took. He took the bridge with cars passing at about 50 mph and deep ridges in the road that made Dad very nervous. He ended up having to get off his bike and walk down the other side of bridge. He thought he was shaky from the stressful situation, so he took a moment to stop and collect himself and realized that the semi-trucks on the bridge were making the bridge vibrate and it wasn't him shaking after all. Needless to say, it took a long time getting off the bridge.
In Charleston, Dad enjoyed sightseeing. He took the trolley and learned all sorts of things about colonial history and the area. He didn't realize the trolley was not just for tourist. Many locals take the trolley for transportation to go shopping, to work, or even to their Saturday morning soccer matches. All the wealthy homes are south of Broad Street. If you live there, you are a S.O.B. (South of Broad). If you live north of Broad Street, you are a S.N.O.B. (Slightly North of Broad Street).
In early U.S. history, Charleston was the wealthiest city in the United States; far more than Boston or New York, due to its economic success in cotton, rice, and indigo dye. Also, Charleston was hedonistic with its dancing and drinking being one of the seeds to the Civil War from the differing philosophies between the aristocratic south enjoying life and the fundamental Puritans in the north.
In Charleston, if a restaurant says there is a 45 minute wait, you can go the bar and order dinner immediately. This was important to Dad, so that he could catch the trolley back to the hotel before it stopped service. By having dinner at the bar, he met a couple who were celebrating a 40th birthday. They recommended he visit Waterboro. The woman was from there and went on about how wonderful it was.
So, on Sunday, the 20th, Dad started toward Waterboro. He was back on US 17 and it felt like a back road with lots of construction. It was another failed shortcut. He thought he was going the wrong way, so he stopped at a fire station to ask for directions, which was a good thing because a mile up the road there was a T-intersection with no signs and Dad wouldn't have had any idea about which way to go. They told him he was supposed to take US17A and by doing so he found himself with a tailwind making good time and completing 35 miles by lunch.
After lunch, Dad was talking to the owner of a gas station and went outside to fiddle with his bike before getting on his way. A friend of the owner came out and said that Waterboro was really out of the way if his intentions were to get to Savannah. He instructed him to go another 35 miles to a KOA campground in Point South, which was on the way to Savannah. So, like the wind, he changed directions and headed for Point South.
On the 21st, Dad rode 21 miles to Savannah. The owner of the Point South KOA was concerned about Dad riding on the new bridge due to the winds and incline. Dad wasn't worried about that, but was concerned he would find himself bumping over deep ridges again. The owner suggested he take Route 170, which had a drawbridge and took him through the Savannah Wildlife Reserve. Heading that way, Dad assumed he would be on a quiet two-lane road through the marshes. It was a two-lane road through the marshes, but it didn't have much of a shoulder and was used extensively by semi-trucks heading to port at 50 mph. The drivers were all courteous, but it was still scary to have the big trucks pass so closely and so fast. Savannah is the 3rd largest container port in the U.S. Dad was amazed by the number of containers he saw, realizing what a major operation it is.
Coming into Savannah, Dad was faced with lots of truck traffic, merging lanes, and confusing road signs. He didn't have enough time to read the signs with trucks blocking his line of sight and had to make last minute decisions about which way to go. He didn't want to get hit or cause an accident. Also, the roads were uneven and it started to rain, so he decided to stop and ask for directions before getting lost.
Dad toured Savannah on the 22nd. The trolley tour was 90 minutes, but he could get on and off whenever he wanted, making for a full day of sightseeing. Actors who served as guides came on board to share about Savannah. He was visited by Forest Gump and passed scenes from the film. He learned that Savannah was a buffer between the Spanish in Florida and the rich in South Carolina. The city was arranged like an English city with many squares (22 in the historic district). In the 60s, Savannah's historic district was considered a slum and they are still working to revitalize it.
Dad's official rest day was on the 23rd. He took his bike to the shop to see if the mechanic could hear the clicking sound that continues to bother him. The guy couldn't hear the clicking and said the bike is solid and in good shape.
Dad figures he is about 4 days ahead of schedule since he stayed on US 17, which kept him close to the coast. If he followed the Adventure Cycling route, he would have taken time to go inland and then back toward the coast. He will pick up the Adventure Cycling route again just north of Jacksonville.
He planned to stay a couple nights at the Mt. Pleasant/Charleston KOA campground since a South Carolina Welcome Center staff member told him they offer a shuttle service into the historic district, but when he got there he found out they didn't. He called around for a hotel in the historic district for Friday and Saturday nights, but there was nothing available unless he wanted to spend over $300/night. He stayed at the KOA on the 17th, after completing 72 miles, and then headed to the Charleston Welcome Center on the 18th.
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| Breast Cancer Awareness |
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| Daughters of the Confederacy |
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| Lost in Time |
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| USS Hunley, a Civil War Submarine |
He walked in and said he needed help finding a place to stay that would allow him to have easy access to the historic district. The lady who assisted him found him a Courtyard by Marriott that was $150/night. Although it wasn't in the historic district, it was on the trolley route to the historic district. He was pleased with the results of asking for help and avoiding the $300/night charge.
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| View from the hotel lobby. |
His ride was short that day. From the KOA, to the Welcome Center, and then the Marriott was just 16 miles. The bridge portion of his ride had a really nice bike lane, he was told, but he never saw it because he wasn't able to access it from the route he took. He took the bridge with cars passing at about 50 mph and deep ridges in the road that made Dad very nervous. He ended up having to get off his bike and walk down the other side of bridge. He thought he was shaky from the stressful situation, so he took a moment to stop and collect himself and realized that the semi-trucks on the bridge were making the bridge vibrate and it wasn't him shaking after all. Needless to say, it took a long time getting off the bridge.
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| Largest suspension bridge in U.S. |
In Charleston, Dad enjoyed sightseeing. He took the trolley and learned all sorts of things about colonial history and the area. He didn't realize the trolley was not just for tourist. Many locals take the trolley for transportation to go shopping, to work, or even to their Saturday morning soccer matches. All the wealthy homes are south of Broad Street. If you live there, you are a S.O.B. (South of Broad). If you live north of Broad Street, you are a S.N.O.B. (Slightly North of Broad Street).
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| Plantation Owner's Summer Home |
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| Big homes. |
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| The South shall rise again. |
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| They say the tax rate is based on the number of windows on the street Thus, many houses look similar to this one. |
In early U.S. history, Charleston was the wealthiest city in the United States; far more than Boston or New York, due to its economic success in cotton, rice, and indigo dye. Also, Charleston was hedonistic with its dancing and drinking being one of the seeds to the Civil War from the differing philosophies between the aristocratic south enjoying life and the fundamental Puritans in the north.
In Charleston, if a restaurant says there is a 45 minute wait, you can go the bar and order dinner immediately. This was important to Dad, so that he could catch the trolley back to the hotel before it stopped service. By having dinner at the bar, he met a couple who were celebrating a 40th birthday. They recommended he visit Waterboro. The woman was from there and went on about how wonderful it was.
So, on Sunday, the 20th, Dad started toward Waterboro. He was back on US 17 and it felt like a back road with lots of construction. It was another failed shortcut. He thought he was going the wrong way, so he stopped at a fire station to ask for directions, which was a good thing because a mile up the road there was a T-intersection with no signs and Dad wouldn't have had any idea about which way to go. They told him he was supposed to take US17A and by doing so he found himself with a tailwind making good time and completing 35 miles by lunch.
After lunch, Dad was talking to the owner of a gas station and went outside to fiddle with his bike before getting on his way. A friend of the owner came out and said that Waterboro was really out of the way if his intentions were to get to Savannah. He instructed him to go another 35 miles to a KOA campground in Point South, which was on the way to Savannah. So, like the wind, he changed directions and headed for Point South.
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| South Carolina Low Country |
On the 21st, Dad rode 21 miles to Savannah. The owner of the Point South KOA was concerned about Dad riding on the new bridge due to the winds and incline. Dad wasn't worried about that, but was concerned he would find himself bumping over deep ridges again. The owner suggested he take Route 170, which had a drawbridge and took him through the Savannah Wildlife Reserve. Heading that way, Dad assumed he would be on a quiet two-lane road through the marshes. It was a two-lane road through the marshes, but it didn't have much of a shoulder and was used extensively by semi-trucks heading to port at 50 mph. The drivers were all courteous, but it was still scary to have the big trucks pass so closely and so fast. Savannah is the 3rd largest container port in the U.S. Dad was amazed by the number of containers he saw, realizing what a major operation it is.
Coming into Savannah, Dad was faced with lots of truck traffic, merging lanes, and confusing road signs. He didn't have enough time to read the signs with trucks blocking his line of sight and had to make last minute decisions about which way to go. He didn't want to get hit or cause an accident. Also, the roads were uneven and it started to rain, so he decided to stop and ask for directions before getting lost.
Dad toured Savannah on the 22nd. The trolley tour was 90 minutes, but he could get on and off whenever he wanted, making for a full day of sightseeing. Actors who served as guides came on board to share about Savannah. He was visited by Forest Gump and passed scenes from the film. He learned that Savannah was a buffer between the Spanish in Florida and the rich in South Carolina. The city was arranged like an English city with many squares (22 in the historic district). In the 60s, Savannah's historic district was considered a slum and they are still working to revitalize it.
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| Welcome to Savannah |
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| Eli Whitney invented the cotton gin, which contributed to the economic viability of slavery. |
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| English Fountain |
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| Johnny Mercer greeting the trolley riders. |
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| Johnny Mercer's Home. He wrote many popular songs including Moon River. |
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| Note the steps covered in grass. |
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| Victorian Homes |
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| No beard. Too itchy. Mom will be happy. |
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| Pirate House |
Dad figures he is about 4 days ahead of schedule since he stayed on US 17, which kept him close to the coast. If he followed the Adventure Cycling route, he would have taken time to go inland and then back toward the coast. He will pick up the Adventure Cycling route again just north of Jacksonville.
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